Design and establishment
of turf areas are important because of their long-term
consequences. Turfgrass has an amazing potential for
compound growth.
So do weeds. The S-shaped growth curve is a powerful
tool for accomplishing turf objectives: the establish
a uniform, manageable turf cover, whether by sod, seed,
sprigs, or plugs. While the two biggest factors in the
success or failure of turf establishment are water and
weeds, these and interwoven with other environmental
factors, e.g., timing, temperature, soil, and use. There
are seven operational steps in turfgrass design and
establishment, and they are covered in the easily remembered
mnemonic P-E-G-I-S-I-D Students should also be
aware of specialized applications, some of which we
will see or discuss on field trips, e.g., sod production,
hydroseeding, washed sod, big roll sod, seed priming
and pregermination, overseeding, and netting.(return)
a. List objectives for the turfgrass area, e.g.,
sanitation, safety, conservation, recreation, esthetics.
How is it going to be used? Ask the users.
b. Are there alternatives to turfgrass - groundcovers,
etc.?
c. Select the right turf species and cultivar for
the site and use.
d. What are the environmental relations - people,
other vegetation (shade trees, herbicide interactions,
integrated management plan), wildlife?
e. Plan for drainage and other soil characteristics.
f. Design the irrigation system.
g. Establish a construction timetable, appropriate
to climate factors, select contractor(s), obtain permits,
etc. (return)
| 2. Eradicate
noxious weeds |
a. Spray with nonselective herbicide (e.g., glyphosate)
to control such noxious grassy weeds as bermudagrass,
torpedograss, and unwanted turfgrasses. Do not
disturb the area for at least 7, and preferably
14, days. Make sure not to introduce noxious weeds
in stockpiled soil or in subsequent plant materials.
Noxious perennial grasses require a minimum of two
applications, usually three.
b. Alternatively, fumigate the soil with methyl bromide
(more for weeds than nematodes). (return)
a. Remove as much of existing vegetation as is feasible,
e.g., cut sod or dragmat and windrow dying weeds and
grass; this is important to make subsequent grading
easier.
b. Partially or completely modify the soil, if necessary:
i. Poorly soluble nutrients, e.g., lime, phosphorus
need to be incorporated before planting.
ii. Soil amendments organic humus, sand, calcined
clay, etc. can be added at this time.
iii. Postpone soluble nutrients, e.g., nitrate, which
will probably leach beyond the rootzone before the
turf has gotten its roots down.
c. Rototill or otherwise mix the soil, mainly for
aeration and subsequent easy of seedbed preparation;
shallow is often best so as not to bring up buried
problems, or destroy soil structure.
d. Install drainage, if any, subsurface (tiles),
or overflow drains.
e. Slope soil away from buildings and sometimes roadways.
- Remove rocks, debris, tree roots.
- Discover point of irrigation connection, any hidden
surprises. (return)
(to be covered in more detail in a supplement)
a. Goals: uniformity, flexibility, lack of runoff,
adjustment to microenvironment.
b. Adjust all elements (valve boxes, pop-ups, etc.)
to final grade.
c. Make sure to promptly and properly fill ditches,
including flooding to prevent subsequent subsidence.(return)
a. Smooth the area to achieve a final grade with
dragmats, wide rakes, etc.; allow for settling; inspect
following a heavy rain; check the irrigation; visit
at night with a flashlight, looking for irregularities.
b. Remove weeds, debris.(return)
a. For actively growing materials (e.g., sprigs),
make sure to plant in a moist seedbed.
b. If using seed, it is almost always best to plant
the seed under the ground, or at least make sure it
is in firm contact with the moist soil.
c. Other considerations are mulch and wind erosion
protection. (return)
| 7. Defend
against hazards |
a. Irrigate sprigged and seeded areas briefly during
the daytime to help hold the soil together. Turf doesn't
need much total irrigation during this period! For
sod, every other day irrigation is usually adequate.
b. Control weeds through timely mowing, preemergence
herbicides, etc.
c. Protect from destroyers, e.g., mole crickets,
ATC's,
d. Fertilize on a timely basis (generally after,
not before, planting). (return)
1. Warm-season turfgrasses are generally propagated
vegetatively because:
(a) seeds are not produced;
(b) seeds are not available;
(c) other organs (stem cuttings) are available and
highly effective;
(d) to maintain uniformity
2. What is the smallest possible unit in vegetative
field propagation?
3. What is the preferable "colony forming unit"
for vegetative propagation under "controlled"
field conditions?
(a) sprig (b) plug (c) stolon
4. What is the preferable "colony forming unit"
for vegetative propagation under "stress"
conditions?
(a) sprig (b) plug (c) stolon
5. What are the two main stresses limiting turfgrass
vegetative propagation and establishment in Florida?
_________________________, and ____________________________
6. Under typical conditions, what is the planting
rate (area of original plant material harvested /
area established) for a St. Augustinegrass sod field
which is plugged:
(a) 0.5% (b) 4% (c) 15%
7. 400 bushels of bermudagrass sprigs per acre are
planted in a ball field. What is the relative planting
rate (area harvested / area established)? (Assume
1 square yard of sprig field yields 1 bushel).
8. Bahiagrass seed commonly yields no more than 200
kg per ha. University of Florida extension recommendations
say to plant it at up to 10 pounds per thousand square
feet (probably 3-4 X too much). What is the relative
planting rate (area harvested / area established)?
(return)
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